Registration, roadworthiness test, service book and ownership history: the documents we check in every used car inspection, and the red flags to watch for.
A car can be mechanically perfect and still land you in trouble: debts that pass to the new owner, a transfer that never completes, or a history that doesn’t match what you were told. Paperwork is the part of the check most buyers leave until last, when it should be one of the first. Below we explain what to ask for, what each document confirms and which signs should make you stop.
Note: this article is a practical guide, not legal advice. Transfer procedures in Greece change from time to time, so for the final step check with the relevant authority or a professional.
A general rule before we start: ask to see the documents before you travel to see the car, or at least before any discussion of price. If something doesn’t add up, you have saved time and trouble for both of you.
1. Registration certificate
The registration certificate (άδεια κυκλοφορίας) is the car’s “identity card”. Check:
- That the seller is the owner. The name on the certificate should match the seller’s ID. If someone else is selling, for example a relative, they need a power of attorney.
- The chassis number (VIN). Find it on the car, usually at the base of the windscreen, on a door pillar or stamped into the chassis, and compare it with the certificate. It must match character for character.
- The technical details. Engine size, fuel, colour and number of seats should match the vehicle. A car running on LPG must have the conversion registered.
- The notes. Look for entries such as a retention of title or another encumbrance that could block the transfer.
If the chassis number on the vehicle looks tampered with, repainted or doesn’t match the certificate, stop there. No other advantage outweighs that risk.
2. Roadworthiness certificate (KTEO)
Make sure the roadworthiness test (KTEO) is valid and see when it expires. Ask for the older certificates too, if there are any. They are valuable for two reasons:
- They record the odometer reading at every test, so they confirm or disprove the mileage. Read more about odometer tampering.
- They list the defects found. A car that failed repeatedly for the same problem has a story worth hearing.
A KTEO that expires in a few weeks isn’t a problem in itself, but ask why the test wasn’t done before the sale.
3. Service book and invoices
A stamped service book and workshop invoices show how the owner looked after the car. Look at:
- the consistency of the intervals and the mileage,
- the major jobs: timing belt or chain, clutch, gearbox fluid, brakes,
- accident repairs, which explain findings from the paint thickness gauge.
Invoices are worth more than stamps, because they say exactly what was replaced. A book full of stamps with no invoices at all deserves a second look.
4. Insurance
For a test drive, the car must be insured. Ask for the insurance certificate and check it is valid. Also ask the seller whether the car has ever been the subject of an insurance claim for damage or a write-off, and compare the answer with the condition of the bodywork.
5. Road tax and outstanding debts
Make sure this year’s road tax has been paid and that nothing is outstanding that would delay the transfer. Ask directly about fines and penalties linked to the vehicle. An honest seller will have no problem showing you the receipts.
6. Imported cars
For cars imported used, ask for the customs clearance and Greek registration documents, as well as any paperwork from the country of origin: the old registration, inspection reports, service history. Documents from the country of origin often show mileages and dates that help confirm the history. There are also vehicle history services that work from the chassis number and draw on European databases. To tell whether a car is imported in the first place, see how to tell from the registration certificate.
7. Cars from leasing or a company
If the car belongs to a company or is coming off a lease, make sure the person signing has the right to sell it and that there is no outstanding finance. Company cars often have a good service history, but also high mileage and many drivers.
8. Keys, manuals and equipment
Small but important: ask for all the keys. A second key with an electronic code can cost a fair amount if it has to be made from scratch. Check that the owner’s manual is there, the radio code where needed, the spare wheel or repair kit, and the locking wheel nut.
The transfer
The transfer of ownership is done at the relevant transport authority or digitally, where available, and needs the consent and details of both parties. Don’t pay the full amount before the transfer is completed or at least submitted, and avoid large cash payments; a bank transfer leaves a record for both of you.
If you pay a deposit, write a simple private agreement with the details of the car and of both parties, the price, the deposit and the terms, for example that the purchase goes ahead subject to a satisfactory inspection.
Buying from a private seller or a dealer
The documents to check are the same in both cases, but the picture differs. A private seller usually knows the car’s history better, especially if they have had it for many years, and can give you invoices and first-hand information about how it was used. On the other hand, they have no obligations after the sale beyond what the law provides.
A dealer often knows less about the car’s previous life, because they took it in part-exchange or bought it at auction. But they issue a sales document and usually offer some kind of warranty. Ask to see in writing what the warranty covers, for how long and on what terms, and don’t settle for verbal assurances.
Questions worth asking
Before you go to see the car, ask on the phone:
- Are you the owner named on the registration certificate?
- Do you have the service book and the invoices?
- When does the KTEO expire, and do you have the older certificates?
- Has the road tax been paid?
- Is there a second key?
- Is the car Greek or imported?
If the answers are vague, be ready to check every point up close. If they are clear and the documents confirm them, you already have a good reason to trust the seller.
Red flags
Stop and think again if:
- the seller isn’t the owner and has no power of attorney,
- the chassis number doesn’t match or looks tampered with,
- the registration certificate is “lost” and will turn up “later”,
- the mileage on the KTEO certificates is higher than the odometer shows,
- the seller insists on cash payment before the transfer.
The CarCheck Basic Inspection also includes a document check: we compare the chassis number with the registration certificate and record anything that doesn’t match. See what the used car inspection covers.
Photograph the documents
Ask the seller’s permission to photograph the registration certificate, the KTEO certificate and the pages of the service book. You can then check them calmly at home, compare dates and mileages, and show them to someone you trust. A seller who refuses something that simple, before you have even talked about price, is already telling you something.
The documents in a used car inspection
Documents aren’t bureaucracy; they are half the truth about the car. Ask for them from the start and compare them with what you see. For the other points to check, read our 10 things to check before buying a used car, or book an inspection and we’ll check the car wherever it is, anywhere in Attica.
Frequently asked questions
How do I check that the chassis number matches the registration certificate?
Find the chassis number (VIN) on the car, usually at the base of the windscreen and stamped into the chassis, and compare it with field (E) of the registration certificate. It must be identical, character for character.
How can I tell if a used car is imported?
Compare fields (B) and (4) of the registration certificate. If the dates differ, the car was first registered in another country. See how to tell from the registration certificate.
Does CarCheck check the documents as part of the used car inspection?
Yes. In the Basic Inspection we compare the chassis number with the registration certificate and record anything that doesn’t match. The inspection is carried out on site, anywhere in Attica. Book online.
